The roster

Eight studios, chosen one at a time

This is the part of LePont that is hardest to copy. We visit studios, look at construction rather than lookbooks, and invite a small number of labels each season. Some are in their first European year. Three have already opened their own doors — and still sell here.

D

Hand-built leather bags set out together, each one slightly different

New to LePont

Dawn Market

Qingdao

Bags built from the offcuts of other people's work.

2 pieces

H

Heavy cotton jackets hung close together on a wooden rack

Héyǔ

Chengdu

Rain-weight outerwear from a wet city.

2 pieces

L

A tailor chalking a line across grey cloth on a cutting table

Graduate

Lín Studio

Shanghai

Tailoring for people who sit down in it.

2 pieces

O

Cast metal pieces laid out on smooth stones, unpolished

Graduate

Onyx & Jade

Shenzhen

Small metal, weighed rather than measured.

2 pieces

R

A shared studio floor with patterns pinned up and thread on every surface

New to LePont

Rèn Collective

Guangzhou

Six designers, one pattern library, no house style.

2 pieces

S

Folded wool jumpers stacked in a quiet room, daylight from one side

Graduate

Sōng Atelier

Suzhou

Hand-finished knitwear on century-old gauges.

3 pieces

W

A maker marking cloth on a studio table, pattern weights holding it flat

New to LePont

Wúmíng

Hangzhou

Unsigned silk, cut for weight rather than shine.

3 pieces

Y

Indigo-dyed lengths of cloth hanging to dry in a courtyard

Yǒng

Xi'an

Indigo, over-dyed until it stops being blue.

2 pieces

The dispatch

Know which labels crossed, before they sell out

One email a month. The designers joining this season, the ones who have opened their own doors, and the occasional dispatch from a studio floor in Suzhou or Chengdu. Nothing else.

Menu

Eight studios, chosen one at a time

D

Dawn Market

H

Héyǔ

L

Lín Studio

O

Onyx & Jade

R

Rèn Collective

S

Sōng Atelier

W

Wúmíng

Y

Yǒng

Know which labels crossed, before they sell out

Your bag